polycon express 2
A
lonely trackside signal guarded a
remote but busy stretch of track deep in the mountains of British
Columbia. This seemed to be an important route by which grain from
Manitoba and Saskatchewan reaches the port of Vancouver; based on the
freight trains I saw I concluded that timber from the mountains, probably
bound for Asia, and oil products from Alberta are two other important
sources of railroad business. I wonder how the railroad keeps the track
clear of snow in the winter.
Here is the "Park" car at the end of the
train, as seen from the bottom of the stairs to the dome, looking towards
the rear of the car. The device in the center is a cup holder for drinks.
Most of the train's passengers were eating dinner at this hour, so the
lounge was almost completely empty. Unlike Amtrak, which often couples
express freight cars on the end of its trains, VIA usually leaves its
"Park" cars with unobstructed rear views. In addition to views from the
rear lounge and the dome, the "Park" car offered passengers free fruit,
coffee, and orange juice.
This waterfall appeared on the right side of the
train while I was still in the "Park" car, and I somehow managed to get a
shot of it. The train was moving quite fast at the time; we had been over
an hour late leaving Edmonton and seem to have been trying to make up
time. Many of my attempts at photograraphy were spoiled when trackside
trees suddenly appeared and blocked my view at the last second; as a
result, many sights I think would have made good pictures escaped the
camera.
Two freight locomotives waited on sidings for the
Canadian to pass. The deep bass throbbing of the diesels could be
felt as we paused for a few moments, then slid slowly by. The engineer in
the picture seemed a patient person; freight trains after all do a lot of
stopping and starting, particularly on single-track lines like this one,
and since they can be a mile or more in length they take a long time to
start and stop. Trains running over the mountains seem to have four or
five of these locomotives in front; some trains even had "helper" engines
pushing at the rear as well.
A brief but spectacular rain storm created the
opportunity for this picture. The river in the foreground is the Fraser
River; several hundred miles downstream from here, at Vancouver, the river
is half a mile across. It was early evening; the train was still about
twelve hours from its destination, still running about an hour late. We
were supposed to be in Pacific Central Station in Vancouver tomorrow
morning at ten minutes of eight, but the actual arrival time would be
closer to eight thirty.
From a dining car dome the Canadian
could be seen threading its way through the Vancouver freight yards. On
either side of the train were grain cars from the Canadian Breadbasket,
probably carrying wheat for export. Since it doesn't make much sense for
Saskatchewan wheat to travel south via Vancouver, I imagine that all this
grain, like the great rafts of logs floating down the river, was destined
for Asia. Vancouver is the closest Canadian Pacific port to the grain
growing regions of Canada.
It was really nice up here. Having just had
an excellent breakfast of french toast and real Canadian maple syrup, I
retreated upstairs to watch the last few miles of the continent slide by.
Because there were so many switches to cross, these last few miles took
half an hour, including a wait just outside the station for a Rocky
Mountain Rail Tours train, bound for Banff and Calgary, to leave. Rocky
Mountain Rail Tours is a "land cruise" operation that runs on an irregular
seasonal schedule; it's not usable as basic transportation. Incidentally,
the lead locomotive on our train, which appears to have been added at
Jasper to help us get over the mountains, had a Kool-Aid logo on its side
instead of the usual "Canada".
Crossing the last bridge over the Fraser
River, VIA Rail Canada train #1, the westbound Canadian, headed
for Vancouver's Pacific Central Station, its three-day transcontinental
odyssey almost complete. That evening, as I sit aboard the southbound
Amtrak train for Seattle, waiting for the rest of the passengers to clear
customs, I saw this train begin its long journey back eastwards as train
#2, with a Wisconsin Central business car trailing.
I had several hours between trains in Vancouver, so I headed for Stanley Park via the Sky Train, Vancouver's high-tech automated rapid transit system. The park, and the city as a whole, is a wonderful place; when I come to Seattle for alt.polycon 7 next April I'm going to come up here again. I could spend a couple of days just exploring the park, with its redwood groves, its seawall path, and its many walking trails. The air here is fresh off the Pacific Ocean; it has the same refreshing, invigorating quality as the ocean breeze on the central California coast.
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